Above the outdoor cafÉs of this city’s trendiest suburb, some 60 exiles are busily dubbing Brazilian soap operas, Japanese cartoons and American music videos into Farsi. They work for GEM-TV, a privately owned, Dubai-based bootleg satellite station that beams the modern world into Iran from a broadcast station in Malaysia. This Southeast Asian nation is becoming, in the words of GEM-TV host Abed Randamiz, “famous as a place to jump” from Iran’s harshly religious regime. “It’s the best of three countries that freely give us visas,” Rangamiz says with a shrug. “The others are Turkey and Turkmenistan.”
The Iranian influx is small but growing fast. At present, there are about 60,000 Iranians, studying, working or waiting for visas in this relatively easygoing, multiethnic Muslim-majority country. Iranians hold shares in an estimated 2,000 Malaysian businesses and occupy about 15,000 spots in Malaysian universities. Tourist arrivals from Iran jumped 14.3% to 116,000 last year. And, observe new arrivals, words of Persian origin, such as dewan for hall and anggur for grapes, have long been part of the Malay language. Most Iranians in Malaysia bask in the comforts of a life free from ideological pressures and from, in one exile’s words, “bribing the police every time you want to have a party.” Malaysia has become the base for frequent “Persian Disco Nights” and glitzy concerts by famed singers – one earlier this year included a rallying cry against the current regime – during the Iranian New Year in March. (Read about Malaysia’s new journey beyond race.)
But life there isn’t without hassles. Many, including Ali Manafi, a radio anchor who recently fled Iran at considerable risk, are exhausted by religious rules. “Spirituality should be personal,” he says. “Here there are too many mosques and imams.” Few Malaysian mosques welcome Shi’ite Muslims, leaving Iranian Shi’ites to worship at their embassy. Iranian activists have also faced rough treatment for political protests. Five Iranian student leaders were arrested for carrying candles in a memorial for protesters killed in Iran. In 2009, a protest of Iran’s recent elections outside the U.N. led to tear gas. However, most activists say they try to stay away from Malaysia’s current unrests – though they are quietly pleased that the recent July 9 demonstration, in which 1,400 Malaysians were arrested, took place on the 12th anniversary of one of Iran’s largest protests.
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